By now, you guys should know the importance of Watch lubrication and pegging out jewel holes. The effect on your service when the jewel holes are not pegged out can actually lower your amplitude by as much as 10 to 15 degrees.

Someone asked me a question about pegging balanced jewels and it’s the one thing that you really never hear about.

The question was primarily about pegging out the balance hole jewels for movements that have shock settings, but this is also going to apply to pocket watch balanced jewels as well.

Today, I’m going to show you the method I use to peg out these tiny little pivot holes and it’s going to be a lot easier than you may think.

And if you do this, it’ll make you a better watchmaker.

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How to Clean a Shock Setting in a Watch Movement

Soak the Chaton

Let’s look at the shock setting in a movement.  I’m going to start by taking out the shock spring and then removing the chaton and end stone, dropping it into a diamond cleaning jar with hexane.

Removing Chaton
Removing Chaton

It only needs to soak for a minute or two, but I’m going to leave it here until I’m ready for it. If you don’t have hexane, 99% pure IPA or Trichloroethylene is a pretty good substitute as well.

Trichloroethylene is the main ingredient of a product known as One dip which is sold for the purpose of cleaning balance wheels and pallet forks. You can buy Trichloroethylene by the gallon.

Now once the chaton has been soaking for a minute or two,  I just agitate the jar by shaking it back and forth to create some movement between the jewel hole and the liquid.

Then I just grab the chaton out of the diamond jar and put it on a clean piece of watch paper.

Pegging the Balance Jewel

 I’m going to pick from my assortment of balanced app tools that I actually showed you how to make in the video entitled Stop Losing Diafix Springs.

Balance Staff Tool
Balance Staff Tool

What I’m looking for is one that fits a little tighter into the hole than normal. I don’t want it to be so tight that I force it in the hole. It should just barely fit in.

 I’m just going to dip the pivot at the end of my tool into a little bit more hexane or IPA, whatever you have, and I’m just going to drop it into the jewel hole.

Pegging Balance Jewel with Old Balance Pivot
Pegging Balance Jewel with Old Balance Pivot

You just lightly spin it a few times, flip the jewel over, and just repeat the same process on the other side.

Now I’m going to put it back into the diamond jar and just give it a few more shakes just to clean anything on it that might be there.

It’s just that simple.

How to Apply a Consistent Drop of Oil on an End Stone

Now another question that comes up all the time is how to lay a consistent drop of oil on the end stone that’s repeatable.

 It’s important that each stone has the same amount of lubrication on both sides of the balance wheel. If they’re not, it can cause differences in amplitude between the two horizontal positions.

Lubrication Storage

If you watched my video on watch lubrication, you know that I store my 9010 and HP1300 in syringes. That way I can control exactly how much oil I put in my pot at any one time without wasting any.

Let’s start by lubricating four end stones, and I’ll show you just how easy it is.

Preparing for Lubrication

The first step is to make sure that the end stone surface is clean and free of all the old lubricant.

Just in case you’ve never seen this done at all, the end stone has two surfaces, one flat and one domed, and we’re going to lubricate the flat side of the jewel.

To lubricate the jewel, I use my black Bergeron oiler, which has been polished, and I make sure that it’s clean and free of any other oils.

Polished tip on Bergeon Black Oiler
Polished tip on Bergeon Black Oiler

Because I know the amount of oil in my oil pot, I can merely stick the oiler straight into the 9010.

Problems with the Oiler Sticking to the End Stone

A typical problem that some people run into is that the jewel sticks to the oiler when they’re trying to apply the oil to it. This is most often caused because the oiler touches the jewel.

Oiler stuck to End Stone
Oiler stuck to End Stone

How Much Oil to Apply

Ideally, you want to have a perfectly round drop sitting in the center of the jewel, but just know if it’s offset a little bit, that doesn’t really matter nearly as much as the amount of oil on both jewels being the same.

Oil Coverage should be somewhere in between 50-75% of the surface of the end stone.

The Key to Applying Oil to an End Stone

The key here is to touch the 9010 to the center of the jewel without the oiler coming in contact with the end stone.

When the oil comes in contact with the jewel, it’s going to pull the oil off the tip of the oiler into a perfect bead.

If your oil bead is too large or the oil is too close to the edge of the End Stone, the oil will not stay in the chaton and will leave you with a dry pivot. Clean the end stone and re-apply until it’s correct.

Applying 9010 to an End Stone
Applying 9010 to an End Stone
9010 as its Applied to End Stone
9010 as its Applied to End Stone

Because I’m able to insert the oiler into the pot in the same way every time, I’m pulling the same amount of oil out of the oil pot.

When you look at the oil spots on these jewels, you’ll notice that they are as close to being the exact same size and the same amount as you could possibly get.

Identical Oil Lubrication on End Stones
Identical Oil Lubrication on End Stones

Proper Oiling means the Chaton Picks up the End stone

When the chaton is laid on top of the end stone, this bead of oil on the jewel allows the chaton, when it touches the bead, to stick together.

With the two pieces now assembled, we can inspect our oil spot through the end stone and see that we have the perfect circle of oil in the middle of the jewel.

Inspecting Lubrication in Chaton
Inspecting Lubrication in Chaton


Proper lubrication of the balance pivots starts with a clean chaton and end stone. The key to proper watch lubrication is precision and nothing needs to be more precise than the balance pivots.

The 9010 should bead a round bead, that covers approximately 50 -75 % of the end stones surface centered as much as possible in the End Stone.

Both end stones need to have the same amount of lubrication for the amplitude to be the same in the horizontal positions.

If the oiler sticks to the end stone or the oil travels to the edge of the stone, it needs to be cleaned and re lubricated.